Writer. Mariner. Coffee-drinker. Leaver-of-town.
Bonjour, Japan
The water was blue and the torii gate standing knee deep in it was red. We walked toward it on a sandy path. My sister and I could hear the rustling of the forest to our left and the whispering of the sea to our right. The moment felt ephemeral, yet eternal. Young students in navy-blue sailor uniforms schooled around us, and the scent of pines drifted past, invigorating after the ship’s climate control. But then all of it was invigorating: the rustic simplicity of the iconic red shrine – arms raised to the sacred island it’s faced for hundreds of years – and the sleek cruise ship and cabin we were sharing for a week, a floating microcosm of French chic bumping up against the rarefied beauty of Japan.
In The Field
Hiking, biking, dogsledding, and guiding: From Zimbabwe’s plains to Puglia’s hills, lives lived out of doors make for great wisdom – and great stories. Eight adventurers share their thoughts on why it’s important to get outside and what we can learn from nature.
Icebreaker - Getting to Know Arctic Svalbard
Bits of white ice bob around our ship in the dark-blue sea, and every so often an iceberg floats by. It’s 5:30 am aboard National Geographic Resolution, but the sun hasn’t set all night. The vessel, on its inaugural voyage to the Arctic, glides silently up a bright fjord, and I’m up early – too excited to sleep – taking in the beauty while northern fulmars streak past like wingmen.
Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest Is Home to the Rarest Bear in the World
See the largest coastal temperate rainforest left on Earth.
Forget the name. Desolation Sound is Canada’s best-kept secret.
From whale watching to bunking at rustic-luxe resorts, here are six ways to embrace the remote wilderness that is British Columbia’s largest marine park.
An Elk Kind of Holiday
Our kids were coming for Christmas, but it was the elk who stayed for dinner.
Grandmother’s Letters and the Meaning of Time
The power of a handwritten note is how it makes you feel.
Navigating Uncharted Waters: A Couple’s Epic Empty-Nest Adventure
A couple embarks on an epic voyage across land and sea.
Magic of the Great Smoky Mountains
Following the devastation of Hurricane Helene, the Great Smoky Mountains in spring are still alive with fireflies, fish, and elk. What the area needs now is tourists.
Greener Pastures: Theatrical weather, stunning walks, and raptors stir the heart on Ireland’s wild west coast
Unlike us, the roads were bendy, with no shoulders, and took their sweet time threading between stone walls and thorn trees. All morning we’d been driving on the left of these narrow, winding roads, as one does in Ireland, muttering (or worse) at occasional oncoming traffic.
In Patagonia
A journey to the end of the earth reveals that, sometimes, we need to go far to go deep.
Take an Ernest Hemingway-Inspired Trip to Key West
A lifelong love of the literary giant leads to the backroads, bars, and boats of Key West, Florida.
One Love: An Oceanfront Villa and Three Generations in Jamaica
Aa every traveler knows, milestone birthdays are the perfect excuse for milestone trips. But when my husband was planning for his 70th and our sons asked, “What are we doing for Dad’s birthday?” we realized our family had morphed into something very different from the one that had trekked the Andes for my 50th and the Dolomites for my 55th.